Elegant Fig: Fig Tree by Sonoma Scent Studio

Apparently I am having a moment of rediscovering fig scents. First there was Ninfeo Mio by Annick Goutal and now I have had the pleasure of the smelling Fig Tree by Sonoma Scent Studio.

Fig Tree is one of the most airy elegant figs I have ever come across. Part of me wants to describe it as a fig flower because this fig is supported by an incandescent musk that illuminates the fig in such a way that the first image that pops into my head is a big giant creamy magnolia blossom. Yet, this scent doesn't smell like magnolia it creates that perfect idea of a creamy giant blossom though.

You are probably thinking at this point that Fig Tree is coconut accented as happens in so many figs, it isn't, it has a creamy quality but at no point do I think of tropics. Rather at times I am reminded just a little bit of the classic peach lactonic chypres such as Femme by Rochas, Champagne by Yves Saint Laurent, or Mitsouko by Guerlain. Yet, Fig Tree is far more wearable than any of those have ever been on me. The support of earthy patchouli and cedar creates a firmly grounded fig, but the use of musk with just the slightest hint of vanilla is used to smooth out any rough edges in this fig.

I am reminded of the gentle sun filled Autumns that happen here in Northern California, they still retain quite a bit of summer but there is an earthy change in them that I can smell in Fig Tree. It's when the oak leaves begin to fall and they crunch beneath your feet and the leaves of the grapevines begin to yellow and redden but the days are still so warm.

What I want to try and convey is that Fig Tree is one of the most sophisticated fig scents I have ever tried. It is so well rounded and polished, I don't want to use the word glamorous to describe it but worldly and intellectual come to mind with this scent. This is a scent that perfectly sits in between autumnal and summery, which is precisely when figs are the best here.

Try Fig Tree if you like Philosykos by Diptyque, Ninfeo Mio by Annick Goutal, or Vol 870 YUL-CDG by Monsillage.


First image from Sonoma Scent Studio
Second image from Life Inspired
Third image from Pierre Mornet

Five Indie Roses Worth Your Attention

It's Spring and I haven't posted anything about Spring perfumes and I have decided to not do that particular list. Instead I decided to do something in the vein of my Five Indie Vanillas post. I know I started the year saying I was maybe done with so much roses, but who am I kidding, I love rose scents. On the other hand rose scents are easily the scents that frequently end up in the breaking the bank category of perfume. So like my Five Indie Vanillas post I decided I wanted to make some suggestions for roses that won't break the bank, are indie, and most of all smell really good. What I love about this particular list is the diversity of the rose scents. None of these smell like the other and they all work with a different concept of the rose.

1. Musk Warda N.3 by Abdul Karim Al Faransi
I don't think I gave Musk Warda N.3 a fair chance when I reviewed it the first time or maybe the weather wasn't quite right for it. This last week I wore it twice and found myself happily in the presence in what made me think this is a Middle Eastern take on the tea rose category of rose scents. For me wearing Musk Warda N.3 is like wearing tea rose scent with splashes of saffron and rose water.  Tea rose scents have the reputation of getting screechy at times Musk Warda N.3 turns into a creamy rosy musk on me with hints of saffron. I am reminded of rose water scented desserts at times, but please understand this is in no way a gourmand scent. Try if you like Sonoma Scent Studio's Velvet Rose or Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose. 

2. Cassis, Rose, & Sandalwood by Dame Perfumery
In some ways this scent makes me think of Cacherel's classic Noa, that creamy musk scent, I suppose it is the peony note. On the other hand Cassis, Rose, & Sandalwood is a far more fun scent. As much as there is a peony note in this perfume there is also a rather delightfully fruity rose going on. The addition of cassis gives a green zing to the scent. To my nose this is a perfectly pink perfume. It is fun, easygoing, and romantic. I wore this last year for a friends wedding weekend and it brings me happy memories every time I wear it. Try if you like Cacherel's Noa or Hermes's Jour d'Hermes. 

3. Brune Melancolia by Sabe Masson
A good dramatic spicy rose is always worth having in your collection, well at least it is for me. Brune Melancolia is just that, it has the freshness of roses with the hinting of greenery of from cassis but after that the story is mainly rose accented by pepper and plum. It is dusky and fresh. Try if you like Diptyque's L'Ombre Dans L'Eau or Serge Luten's La Fille de Berlin.

4. Summer Afternoon by A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes
This really should be far better known in the rose perfume loving community. Summer Afternoon is one of the most vintage-y rose perfumes I have smelled in a long time. It is akin to Guerlain's Mitsouko with the use of peach and clove, but where as Mitsouko never goes beyond the top notes on me Summer Afternoon turns into a joyous lush combination of rose, peach, and spices on me. The rose used in this is sweet and fruity yet not cloying or jammy, the combination of it with the peach and apricot notes makes it ambrosial but it is kept grounded with the addition of patchouli and clove. Try if you Like Guerlain's Mitsouko, DSH Perfume's La Reine des Fleurs, or Ann Gerard's Rose Cut. 

5. Rose Musc by Sonoma Scent Studio
For dusky sensuality I am going to recommend you get your hands on Rose Musc. Rose Musc is the perfect combination for me of deep rose with labdanum animalic musk. It blends into the wearer and creates that alluring indigo halo effect that I associate with really good musks. The rose here is soft and plush there is no green or spice notes, the combination of the scent is all about the rose and the musk. Try if you like Ava Luxe's Rasa or Lancome's Mille & Une Roses. 

image from Behance.net

Do You Need A Rose? Consider Sonoma Scent Studio

I think it can be established by now that I love rose scents, but as we all know getting a good rose scent can require some sampling, and every rose lover wants a certain quality of rose accentuated. If you are looking for a new rose scent, then please consider Sonoma Scent Studio, and the three rose scents offered. The quality of scents are superb.

For the lovers of true rose, you know the kind, the one that is fresh, green, dewy, and reminds of rose gardens, consider Velvet Rose. Velvet Rose is a true rose and a lovely one. It is blatantly about rosiness and nothing else. The spice, zest, greenness, and dewiness of a rose at the height of its bloom are accentuated beautifully. The base is clean musk that is deepened with sandalwood, the rose is the shining star still, but wafts are akin to tea roses, and rosewater. If you want big glorious dewy rose then this is the scent for you.

Try Velvet Rose if you: Paris by Yves Saint Laurent, the 1000 Roses line by Andalou, and Bvlgari Pour Femme.

I don't think Rose Volupte could be more aptly named, for it truly is a voluptuous rose scent. Rose Volupte starts off with an enveloping scent of roses, powder, lemon, and plum the vintage inspiration of this scent is announced immediately. The rose then becomes mildly spiced and then the enveloping final stage of rose, ambregris, and oakmoss. And truly this is the enveloping, imagine rich fabrics, and concerts. Very romantic and dramatic.

Try Rose Volupte if you like L'Arte di Gucci, Chanel Bois des Iles, and the original Agent Provocateur.

The last rose offering by Sonoma Scent Studio is my favorite, Rose Musc. Rose Musc is a very thousand and one nights scent to me. Like all my favorite musk scents it evokes the color of a indigo sky at dusk. The rose is lush and perfectly balanced with smooth creamy musk that has a gorgeous depth of labdanum and the added luminous quality of ambregris. This a mystic scent to me.

Try Rose Musc if you like Ava Luxe's Rasa, Montale's Musk to Musk, or Lancome's Mille and Une Roses.

Image 'Follow the Roses' by Perla Maarek

Putting Spring in Your Perfume

In California it has been Spring for awhile, so I have actually had the chance to get out my spring perfumes, and really figure out which ones are the most spring-ful to me. So without further nattering my picks for Spring. Also, this following list is only for perfumes still in production.

1. Elie Saab Le Parfum. Do you need a resplendent orange blossom with a bit of earthy cedar and honey? Which is also easy to find? Then pick up the original Elie Saab scent. You will glow in this scent and get compliments. It is the best orange blossom on the mass market at the moment and I still love it.

2. Jour d'Hermes by Hermes. Do you often wonder what a modern spring goddess would smell like? I suspect it would probably be this. A tart tangy grapefruit opening followed by a bouquet of flowers. The funny thing with each wearing I get a different emphasis on different flowers or notes. Sometimes it is tiare, other times freesia, in other moments sweet peas, and one time delicious musk.

3. Le Temps d'Une Fete by Nicolai Parfumeur Createur. A glowing yellow field full of earth, musk, narcissus, and sweet herbs. Utterly gorgeous and just makes you want to keep inhaling. A unique take on oakmoss that I actually like.

4. Cassis, Rose, & Sandalwood by Dame Perfumery. Juicy current and peonies followed by roses and woods, I am reminded of easier going L'Ombre Dans L'Eau by Diptyque. If you have ever found the L'Ombre Dans L'Eau too harsh and green try this one.

5. Trefle Pur by Atelier Cologne. Need to feel fresh, earthy, and completely classy? Pick this one, I am always reminded of rolling green hills and green ferns when I wear this one.

6. Neroli Blanc Intense Eau de Parfum by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger. The great orange blossom gourmand, sweet and lively, this scent is for feeling joyous. It makes me think orange blossom cream and first stone fruit of spring.

7. Lieu de Reves by Sonoma Scent Studio. Rainwater violets, sweet rose water, heliotrope and with a sweet amber iris dry down. A lovely rainy spring day at a pastry shop.

8. Pepper Ylang by Smell Bent. The hot cold sweet scent of heady ylang ylang with a smooth drydown of vanilla and myrrh. A happy yellow scent.

image from ili-ili.net

Plum Quest 2014: Wood Violet by Sonoma Scent Studio

We grow a lot of plums in California. Now that I think of it we are probably the state that grows the most plums. The Santa Rosa plum was created in California. We are a plummy state. Going to the farmer's market here at the right time of year is like being in plum land, the sheer variety is amazing. So getting to the point: I know plums. In fact I like plums enough that I want a well done plum scent, something that bursts with plumminess, which if you are a perfume lover know is bizarrely rare to find. So I have started my plum quest, a search to find the plummiest fragrance I can get (reasonably). For an idea of what I am going to try or what I have deemed not plummerific enough check this post.

So the beginning of this quest has started with the wonderfully local Sonoma Scent Studio's Wood Violet. I would like to add how proud I am to know that this amazing perfumer is from California and creating some of the best niche fragrances out there. The quality is amazing and what I love about her perfumes is that they always feel finished, there is never a point where I think well this note feels off or the depth isn't right, they feel so wonderfully classically finished.

Wood Violet opens with one of the plum rich beginnings I have ever smelled in a perfume. This is a rich plum note, at full ripeness, the point where the honeyed flavor of a plums is the most intense. This opening is hyper realistic, I have frankly never smelled a plum opening quite so realistic. This opening stays around for quite awhile and yet what will catch you off guard is that violet comes in so smoothly, perfectly melding with plum that you are rather shocked when you realize it has fully taken over. What I find so interesting is that Laurie Erickson makes this transition so utterly seamless and they way she does it is by emphasizing the banana leather note you smell in violets and plums. The scent begins its middle stage where the violet is reigning queen, the plum is still there giving the scent a rather velvet depth, but now the scent is about violet. The scent finally ends on a warm cedar-y musky dry down at this point it is very akin to Serge Luten's Feminite du Bois but Erickson makes it even smoother there are hints of violet leaf  and a very tiny hint of spices that keep the scent very rounded.

Wood Violet is most definitely inspired by Feminite du Bois but where as FdB becomes a cedar spice musk story, Laurie Erickson decides to run with the violet, and let it be the major player in the story. Along the way she also decided to emphasize the role of the plum in doing so she created a riper lush scent that emphasizes the magic of a well done violet scent.

Try if you like Feminite du Bois by Serge Lutens, Jolie Madame by Balmain, or Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka.  

image from Sarahmet

SOTD: Lieu de Reves

Helg you were right when you said this was pretty and I am going to add this is just plain pretty. I like to think I go with the edgier fragrances but the truth is I don't, but at the same time nor do I often wear what I consider to be utterly and completely pretty (I sometimes think this is just hard for me to pull off, because off line I am a rather sarcastic person) but Laurie at Sonoma Scent Studio has pulled off pretty at its prettiest. The violet in this feels as though it has been drenched in cool spring rain and then been left on a plate with rosewater madelines and perfect snow white macaroons. This is gourmand in the sense that L'Heure Bleu is gourmand, there are notes of gourmand running through it, but the fragrance is not edible. This is the sort've of fragrance that other women will complement you on. Bizarrely enough all I can think when I smell this is if you enjoy the prettiness of Le Chasse aux Papillons then I highly suggest you take a sniff of this, they do not smell similar at all, but they run in the same family of pretty.

Also having the guy over tonight, I'm making pasta carbonara and roasted asparagus, and I am going to pull out the Fifi Chachnil edp.

image provided by artmagick.com

image: Spring by Frances MacNair

SOTD: Opal by Sonoma Scent Studio

So yesterday was fabulous, my boyfriend took me to this insane castle winery up in Napa. It is amazing the change of scenery as you go up the valley the further up becoming greener and more forested. So lovely. We later on stopped at anothe winery to have lunch and there was the lovely scent of jasmine in the air.
Today I have to work and I suspect it will be crowded in the library, the weather has taken a turn for the cold and rainy, which is shock in May and after the heat of a couple weeks ago. Still I plan on my first visit to the farmer's market today, been waiting for this all winter and most of spring. Today I will be testing out Sonoma Scent Studio's Opal, which is so far a lovely cozy musk, and later on most likely putting on some Euphoria.

Quote of the Day: Truth is beautiful, without doubt; but so are lies.-- Ralph Waldo Emerson

Song: A Case of You by Joni Mitchell (0ne of my all time favorite songs)

image provided by artnet.com

image: Pink Cloud by Julie Freund