Tuesday, August 08, 2006
Anne Pliska: A Scent For A Golden Eyed Woman
Well this will be my first perfume review in a long time, but it is a scent that I am finding very striking right now:
Bottom-Amber, Vanilla, Patchouli, Musk
There is a constant descripton of Anne Pliska being hot/cold. I believe it has finally occurred to me why this scent has such a smooth intense introduction. The scent begins with the aroma of the rind of citrus fruit that has no tang of the flesh beneath the rind being included in the beginnig, but rather the intense bitter sweetness of the rind that has been further enhanced by the touch of aldehydes, this is not the sparkling diamond aldehydes of Chanel 5 or the citrus clean aldehydes of Dolce and Gabbana Sicily, but rather these are dark pungent aldehydes that creates a scent that glimmers between black and gold, bringing out the scent of the broken peel of an orange that is about to turn. This strange almost gothic effect is enhanced by the scent of intensely sweet almost animalic jasmine that almost hits the cusp of becoming indolic except that the great balancer of geranium has been added which gives the jasmine a strange coca-cola spice scent. This is all layered over a base of deeply smooth amber which has been enhanced with a vanilla that is seems very similar to my nose of Mexican Vanilla with its wonderful spicy quality, a bit of wood from the patchouli. Over all the scent of of Anne Pliska is that of contrasts, it takes the concept of citrus and instead of playing on the concept of something that is fresh and zesty it insteads brings out the the beautiful rind and makes it seem intense sweet and dark. Further enhancing this sweet darkness is the scent of night touched heady jasmine. And topping it all off is the very prominent and gorgeous amber that does not play on the concept of it being a warm bakery like note that it is so oftened used in perfume for, but rather it plays on the history of amber as something that would travel far from cold regions in the ancient world to the ancient opulent warmth of the Roman empire where it was a prized jewel. The image that comes to my mind of Anne Pliska is of a large polished piece of golden polished piece of amber on a the most dark and velvety of furs by firelight, a trade between a sophisticated and chic merchant of Rome and a wild Northerner. The ultimate irony that the wild Northerner has something of great luxury and finesse that could only come from a place far from the sophistication of the Roman Empire.