Modern Elegance: Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue (2012)

For the last 8 years I have worn some sort of iteration of Prada's Infusion d'Iris, the first being the original version of Infusion d'Iris, after that there was Candy (yup I consider it just another spin-off of the Infusion series), and currently I am now on a bottle of Infusion d'Irs Eau de Parfum Absolue.

The original Infusion d'Iris could easily be a part of this series. Here is the thing I have not worn the current version which was definitely reformulated but what I can do is tell you about the Absolue version.

Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue and from here on out referred to as simply Absolue is sort of the perfect marriage of Infusion d'Iris with Candy and with a few tricks up its sleeve. Absolue takes that perfect cloudy sweetness of Candy and marries it to the wonderfully approachable and urbane iris found in Infusion d'Iris. It ends up just being this perfect puff of bittersweet in Absolue, it amplifies the powder and adds a sensual skin note that had not originally been there.

Yet, what makes Absolue so elegant and far more adult is the use of incense in the scent. There is a definite far more earthier note in Absolue than in the original Infusion d'Iris. At times on my skin it can read as patchouli or sometimes it shows itself as incense, it is a fun trick.

What I love also about Absolue is the earthy powder that pervades it. Obviously that is partly iris doing its work but there is just a hint of rice in it that suggests makeup. It gives Absolue just a hint of glamour.

The elegance of Absolue is that for me it takes the aloof iris and makes it far more approachable yet keeps iris's erudite qualities. The addition of benzoin and richer incense notes gives it a greater depth and sensuality than the original Infusion d'Iris, letting the wearer have a far richer scent which thankfully though does not ever enter the burdensome territory. As always the Infusion series remains seasonless and all occasion ready, it is probably as close to a signature scent as I have come.

Try if you like Prada's original Infusion d'Iris or Candy, Parfumerie Generale's Iris Taizo, Chanel No.19 Poudre, Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Bleu, or Cognoscenti No. 19 Warm Carrot.

First image is from Fragrantica.com
Second Image from Estuary Designs

The Prettiest Girl In The Room: Lolita Lempicka L'Eau En Blanc

Sometimes you forget you like pretty, like the easy pretty, where there is frankly nothing else but pretty going on. As a scent lover this is even easier to forget because most of the time your passions are for the things that are less easy because you are rather sick of the banal. You confuse banal with pretty. This is a sad confusion which I easily blame on the crap that is usually on the mass market perfume counters that is called "pretty." A good deal of the time it is banal, so you frequently pass it by with good reason, but in doing so you end up becoming jaded to the idea of a pretty fragrance. At least I have, maybe others not so much, but I frequently forget I like pretty scents. And then every once in awhile I am wonder struck by one because it makes me remember that pretty can be really good in a scent.

Maybe I should back up for a moment and also mention that pretty is frequently equated with floral perfumes and pure floral perfumes have always been a very small legion I get along with. Other people wear them beautifully but for me screechy can frequently happen, the pretty getting outweighed by whatever off note chose to manifest on my skin, that then causes me discord.

Lolita Lempicka L'Eau En Blanc is pretty, it's not banal, but you know what neither is it going to cause argument. What it is a springtime variation of Lolita Lempicka the original scent. Take the notes down that could be too much in warm weather and instead heighten the violet and iris note, let a little greenery enter the scent. Accent the almond note with more heliotrope then heighten it just a little with the tint of raspberry, the raspberry is used with a perfect hand never overwhelming the fragrance but rather it flutters around the edges of the almond meringue scent in L'Eau En Blanc. The raspberry also tones down the white musk note giving it a fruity edge that allows for the powder of the scent to mingle easily with sweet notes of the perfume. Finally keep that delicious tonka, vanilla, and vetiver mix of the original but let it be lightened up by the musk and iris.

What you end up having is a very pretty scent that is still interesting but allows the wearer to feel a little more at ease in the heat of Spring and Summer, the iris and violet are allowed to show their cooling properties but the gourmand qualities of Lolita Lempicka are still allowed to play.

Try if you Falling In Love by Philosophy, Trussardi Jeans for her, Lieu de Reves by Sonoma Scent Studio, or Apres L'Ondee by Guerlain.

first image from punmiris.com
Second image from metmuseum.org

Perfume Review: Trussardi Jeans for Women

If you were to tell me one of my favorite fragrances was going to be called Jeans I would have laughed. I'm short and larger hipped, jeans and I for the most part do not get along, it is usually a once a year excursion into body dysmorphia of "Why won't these jeans f*&!ing jeans fit properly!?" At my plumpest and my thinnest jeans have not fit properly. On the other hand Trussardi Jeans is my go to anytime perfect fitting fragrance.

First off this fragrance is not necessarily original, in fact is smells like a very high end bit of a cult status fragrance, L'Artisan Jour de Fete, in fact nearly identical, except that Trussardi Jeans is in my estimation a better fragrance. Nor is my comparison original I learned of this fragrance and comparison through Aromascope.

Now what it means to me: rain water, violets, lovely clean diaphonous heliotrope, sweet milk, blanched almonds, and hints of peppery white musk (luckily not laundry detergent), and incredible calm. This is such a perfect calm space scent that caters to the comforting side but does not veer off into bakery land. It has excellent lasting power but is never overwhelming. When I don't know what to wear I reach for this. It is never offending but also never dull, for me it is my Guerlain Apres L'Ondee except it works on me.

Try if you like: Caron Farnesiana, L'Artisan Jour de Fete, Guerlain Apres L'Ondee, Black Phoenix Alchemy Dana O'Shee.

image by Tatiana Plakhova

SOTD: Ferre by Ferre

I think I may be going backwards with my fragrance love when I was young I adored Paloma Picasso (I suspect because of my association with my mother), I understood chypres to an extent, but then I moved on to sweet gourmands, after that it was orientals and woods but always with a sweet edge, for the most part this year I have been enamoured with the note of tobacco, and now as Autumn arrives I suddenly have my eyes looking towards florals. It has begun with an awakened love for lily which began with Donna Karan's Gold and now with the blazing Serge Luten's Un Lys, sharped edged in exactness of opulent lily. But to be more truthful this new love towards lady-like florals most likely began with Prada's Infusion d'Iris, which I have worn the last two years with a great deal of love, the bottle more than half way gone, which is almost unheard of for a fragrance lover. But lately that iris just hasn't been up to what I have been wanting on a whim I swapped for Ferre by Ferre, another iris of good repute. This is an iris for Autumn (okay the whole year) where as Infusion d'Iris can feel too cool and delicate in cold weather unless you are need a spring pick me up, this one warm and powdery starting with a lovely bright pineapple note and then heads into lovely iris softness.

image provided by artnet.com

image: Autumn Garden by Ellen Phelan 2008

SOTD: Iris Taizo

So about a month ago I got a sample of Parfumerie Generale's Iris Taizo and well I tried it a couple of times but I admit at those times my nose was slightly stuffy, but each time I the scent that came to my nose was heavily spiced civety amber (which is something I am just not into these days) and well it turns out my nose wasn't wrong even when slightly stuffy. I admit now I can smell a slight hint of powder that must come from the iris, the civet quality is most definately there in its pungency, but over all this scent is amber on me. While I don't abhor it, Iris Taizo is most definately not me; which I am quite happy with because the price on Parfumerie Generale's scents went up quite a bit.

Quote of the Day: The price one pays for pursuing any profession or calling is an intimate knowledge of its ugly side.-- James Baldwin

image provided by artnet.com

Listening to the Waterfall in the Autumn Woods by Hsu Kuo-Huang 1998

His and Her's

I admit I am fascinated by the concept of complimentary female and male fragrances. Although, I will add before going on that I fully support men and women going across the gender lines of perfume and wearing exactly what they want. And now back to his and her's fragrances, the fact is rarely do designers actually come out with his and her's scents that actually complement each other. So I have decided to propose my combinations that actually compliment each other from the catergories of male and female fragrance and I fully support the crossing of gender lines with these fragrances.

Bvlgari pour Homme Soir and Prada Infusion d'Iris

I would have never smelled the similarities of these two fragrances had my boyfriend not bought himself Bvlgarie pour Homme Soir on a whim. In fact I will say this on a paper strip these don't smell alike all, but once on the skin do they begin to share magical similarities. The magic note that brings them together: papyrus. Infusion d'Iris has always reminded me of the scent of papyrus but papyrus is not one of its listed notes, I suspect that Infusion d'Iris achieves this quality with the mixing of iris and vetiver. As for Bvlgarie pour Homme Soir well the papyrus note is achieved because papyrus is one of its notes.

The differences between these two are as interesting as their similarities. Infusion d'Iris remains through out its process to drydown with hints of green sap to complement the dryness of the iris and vetiver blend. Where as Bvlgari pour Homme Soir hints at the lightest fougere notes and dark violets surrounding a powdery grey iris note.

These two scents achieve a lovely cool elegance that is perfect for a spring and can easily be worn by either sex.

Official notes for both fragrances:

Infusion d'Iris: Galbanum, Mandarin Orange, Orange Blossom, Lentisk, Iris, Cedar, Vetiver, Benzoin, Frankincense

Bvlgari pour Homme Soir: Bergamot, Darjeeling Tea, Papyrus, Musk, Amber.

image provided by artnet.com

Male and Female Anglo-American Raccoons by Nicolas Huet 1817

SOTD: Prada Infusion d'Iris

Today I am going with the lovely delicate Prada Infusion d'Iris. I'm entering that part of year where all I want is spring scents (I know rather early, but then again I usually pull out my heavy orientals in August because well I start craving the yummy scents of Autumn and Winter, really it is a violent cycle :-P). This is also helped by the fact that Illuminations just put out there new Spring scents and well they look really good. Especially the Bellini one. By the way this is the first Iris fragrance I have ever owned.

The scent of intelligence

What makes a scent intelligent? As usual it really does rely on the nose of the one who is smelling. Still there are few fragrances that I own or have sniffed that scream intelligence too me. And also there is one note that if I smell in on a woman it always makes me think she might be intelligent: vetiver. And now a fun little scent list:

Balmain Ivoire- it's dry, unique, earthy, yet resplendently soapy that it screams high class. It is scent of beauty but beauty with sardonic intelligence with the raised tilt of a brow.

Guerlain Vetiver- Yes, it's in the men's section of the fragrance counter but trust me this has easily got to be one of the most wearable scents. It's clean but earthy with that zest from the citrus. The nutmeg and the tobacco give it a subtle unique dry down that is inviting but does not scream I am trying to seduce you but rather, I smell incredible and I bet you wonder what the hell it is? It is the scent I wear when I want a confident easy going quality.

Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon- What this ultimately dries down to on me is a powdery iris vetiver concoction both scents of intelligence yet when used correctly have cool deeply sensual quality. This is the Femme Fatale of intelligent fragrances, this is the "going out" scent of an intellligent woman.

Chanel Chance- I admit this one does not work on me. Yet, when I have smelled it on women it works it becomes a brite citrusy laden patchouli vetiver concoction, almost having an eau de cologne quality but with definite sillage. The ad campaign was flirty and girly but the scents dry down is anything but that.

Chanel Coco Madamoiselle- This may have one of the most wonderfully smooth openings but the patchouli dry down screams pure wit.

Ava Luxe's Midnight Violets

(above thee Beau Brummel)

Notes: Violet, Blue iris, Orris, Earth, Black hemlock, Galbanum, Pink pepper, Cinnamon, Cedar, Sandalwood, Incense, Wood balsam, Moss, Civet, Cashmere musk. On the website she says this is for both men and women and I can believe. I think there is some definite inspiration from Balmain's Jolie Madame in this, what it doesn't have is the sweet gardenia/violet banana middle or the leather/asthtray note in the dry down. The violets are subdued and other wise the woods and incense take over with the galbanum bringing that note of harsh green soapiness. This definately has a chypre quality running through it but a bizarre hint of creaminess (which i can only assume comes from the cashmere musk and sandalwood). This would be lovely on a man; of course my perfume dream is to smell Jolie Madame on a man. The earth note runs strongly through this and the cedar definitily has its moment. Overall this is a smoother more approachable version of Jolie Madame, but does not lose the qualities that make Jolie Madame unique and wanted by those discerning few. A lovely earthy violet scent. Now to find a man to wear.