Modern Elegance: Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue (2012)

For the last 8 years I have worn some sort of iteration of Prada's Infusion d'Iris, the first being the original version of Infusion d'Iris, after that there was Candy (yup I consider it just another spin-off of the Infusion series), and currently I am now on a bottle of Infusion d'Irs Eau de Parfum Absolue.

The original Infusion d'Iris could easily be a part of this series. Here is the thing I have not worn the current version which was definitely reformulated but what I can do is tell you about the Absolue version.

Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue and from here on out referred to as simply Absolue is sort of the perfect marriage of Infusion d'Iris with Candy and with a few tricks up its sleeve. Absolue takes that perfect cloudy sweetness of Candy and marries it to the wonderfully approachable and urbane iris found in Infusion d'Iris. It ends up just being this perfect puff of bittersweet in Absolue, it amplifies the powder and adds a sensual skin note that had not originally been there.

Yet, what makes Absolue so elegant and far more adult is the use of incense in the scent. There is a definite far more earthier note in Absolue than in the original Infusion d'Iris. At times on my skin it can read as patchouli or sometimes it shows itself as incense, it is a fun trick.

What I love also about Absolue is the earthy powder that pervades it. Obviously that is partly iris doing its work but there is just a hint of rice in it that suggests makeup. It gives Absolue just a hint of glamour.

The elegance of Absolue is that for me it takes the aloof iris and makes it far more approachable yet keeps iris's erudite qualities. The addition of benzoin and richer incense notes gives it a greater depth and sensuality than the original Infusion d'Iris, letting the wearer have a far richer scent which thankfully though does not ever enter the burdensome territory. As always the Infusion series remains seasonless and all occasion ready, it is probably as close to a signature scent as I have come.

Try if you like Prada's original Infusion d'Iris or Candy, Parfumerie Generale's Iris Taizo, Chanel No.19 Poudre, Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Bleu, or Cognoscenti No. 19 Warm Carrot.

First image is from Fragrantica.com
Second Image from Estuary Designs

The Mall Report: Chanel, Prada, Jo Malone, and Marchesa or what I really remember

So every once in awhile I have an extra long lunch break so I like to traipse over to the local mall and check out the latest fragrance offerings in the area.

First up Jo Malone's Blackberry and Bay which was not particularily very blackberry or bay, more citrussy than anything, which was disappointing because I love both of those things.

Then the big bad fruitchouli or as they are calling it over at Chanel, Coco Noir, sigh what an utter disappointment, the bottle is gorgeous, the name alone demands something good, but sadly this is a giant fruitchouli with some serious tenacity. Just no thank you.

Marchesa's Parfum D'Extase, big giant white floral, with possible headache inducing qualities, although touted as "fresh" and "different" I only smelled this on a card, and immediately knew it was not for I.

Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue, this is pretty, very nice, not sure I need it with by bottle of Prada Candy still on the fuller side, as most have said imagine Infusion d'Iris mixed with Candy and you would have something like this but with a richer animalic dry down.

Tomorrow No6 by Naoko Stoop

Prada Candy

It's funny had you said I would go through the bottles of one houses perfumes easily, I would not have guessed Prada. Not that I don't get the aesthetic of Prada but I am just not that high minded about my fashion, not that I don't have a concept of a beauty or that I can't appreciate the aesthetic of Prada, but I'm not a Prada woman unless you take into account their fragrances, then I am totally their woman. I went through a bottle of Infusion d'Iris eau de parfum, easily, garnered compliments, and have often consider replacing the bottle I used up. It was my easy elegant go anywhere scent that made me feel put together and at ease.

The news then came out about Candy and I wasn't quite sure what to expect, a gourmand from Prada? Then the advertising fun, playful, young bright exuberant pink, uh oh? Really, we should have all known better, this is Prada we are talking about. To say the aesthetic of this house is well controlled is an understatement.

So I finally catch my first whiff of Candy and an hour later I have a bottle, it is good, but completely not what is advertised, yes this will appeal to the young, but this scent will appeal to all ages.

First off ignore the name Candy, there is really nothing candy-ish about it, maybe hints of those amazing sea salt caramels in France or the delicious goat's milk caramel from Mexico called Cajeta but like I said hints. This scent though is firmly rooted in the Infusion family, it starts off with the gauzy note that always makes me think of papyrus and mineral dust but instead of being layered over iris this time it is layered over benzoin and white musk.  Towards the end a milky vanilla bean caramel shows up but it is light never ever overpowering, more like quality of two minutes after eating one of those delicious sea salt caramels where there is still a hint of nutty smooth sweetness in your mouth but for the most part it is gone. The effect is warm and comforting, it belongs to the family of Lea St. Barth scents, easy and comfortable but just really really good to smell. The thing is also it is very tasteful this scent is not going to offend anyone but it is interesting, it is a gourmand but one that runs away from heavy confections and rather is meant to remind the memory of confections, like this:

If I were to be really frank this is the gourmand for the people who think they hate gourmand, not diet gourmand, but rather the memory of really good treat.

Try if you like: Serge Luten Un Bois Vanille, Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue, Al-Rehab Dalal, Kenzo Kenzo Amour, Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee.

first image: 'Cosas Intimas #72' by Conrad Roset 
second image: http://www.manusmenu.com/blue-persian-salt-caramel-sauce