Empressa or Penhaligon's Hacks Out Their Own Coco Madamoiselle

I'm going to be honest my reaction's to Penhaligon's Empressa have been rather crass. They have been somewhere along the line of "Victorian my ass!" I know that is rather severe but I have to tell you it is because Empressa is such an utter disappointment in the creativity/new department.

Empressa is Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle with a bit more fruit, a heightened rose, and a better defined woody dry down but let it be clear Empressa is a fraternal twin to Coco Mademoiselle. There is no getting around the fact that the structure and inspiration for Empressa is Coco Mademoiselle. They amped the patchouli and reduced the vetiver and jasmine. They added an inkling of fruitchouli.
The worst part for me may be the damned ad-copy that suggests that this is Victorian era inspired scent that suggests faraway lands. There is nothing Victorian or faraway lands about this unless your idea of a faraway land is the Chanel makeup counter, then land ahoy for you.

So how did this get created? My thought's Penhaligon's looked at their roster of scents and reputation and thought must get that "Young Modern Woman" demographic and looked to the perfumer Christian Provenzo and said "Just make it Coco Mademoiselle, tweek it a bit, and we are set." Apparently they are set because if you go to the Penhaligon's website Empressa is currently being proclaimed as one of their bestsellers.

Does Empressa smell bad? No, but the joke is you can basically get this for cheaper from Chanel. For me Empressa just feels like a gross example of a scent that was utterly created by marketing. On the other hand they way Penhaligon releases perfumes these days as though they throwing out whatever they have to see what will stick maybe they found that gum everyone wants to chew.

Image from Little Movie Nerd

SOTD: Coco Madamoiselle pure parfum

When you smell the other variation of Coco Madamoiselle the flowers are never what you really smell, rather your attention is on the bergamot laced patchouli, but the pure parfum is another story. The bergamot does not last as long instead you are plunged into a creamy heart of jasmine only slowly does the patchouli vetiver drydown come along. It is beautiful and modern with its rather straight lines, it is a fine tailored suit with a few modern edges. It strangely always reminds me of the color orange.
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image: Jasmine by Natasha Law 2008

SOTD: Coco Madamoiselle pure parfum

Quote of the day: If I had to live my life again, I'd make the same mistakes, only sooner.-- Tallulah Bankhead
If there is a note Chanel should be known for I think it is there jasmine. I have never been a jasmine lover, but yesterday after I put on Coco Madamoiselle I was entranced by the jasmine note that Chanel uses. I have smelled it in Chance, Allure, Allure Sensualle, and Chanel 5 and it remains one of the most gloriously creamy jasmines out there. But how can I forget the aldehydes which I think Chanel uses geniusely, examples: Bois des Iles (a mix of woods and aldehydes that I have yet to smell any where else), Chanel 22 (aldehydes and incense, I still haven't smelled this combo any where else), and grandmother of it all Chanel 5. But then again I think the house of Chanel has rather been genius with the use of vetiver and patchouli; in fact I think Coco Madamoiselle is first fragrance to really use the cleaned-up patchouli note that has taken over the world of perfume the last couple of years. I never thought the day would happen that I would owe most of my allegience in fragrance love to the house of Chanel; I thought I would be a Guerlain girl, but I had the sad realization that guerlinade and I do not get along together. Chanel is so modern and I look rather in proportions and looks like something from the 19th century, but I do also love the irony in fashion.

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image: Tete de Femme by Francois Louis Schmied 1930

SOTD: Coco Madamoiselle

Working on the weekend is never fun, but my case it is what you have to do. Wearing Coco Madamoiselle which is in my opinion a perfect office scent, has light florals that no one can call offensive, but an aggresive enough bottom notes that no one can call you a push over (aren't office politics wonderful?!). After that I have my boyfriend's nephew's birthday party to attend, which with his family should be interesting. Long day I must say.

Quote of the Day: It is no good to try to stop knowledge from going forward. Ignorance is never better than knowledge. -- Enrico Fermi

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Child with Flowered Hat by Gu Zhinong

SOTD: Coco Madamoiselle pure parfum

Going with the one of modern marvels of fragrances today: Chanel's Coco Madamoiselle. This scent in pure parfum remindes me of orange trees; ironically the notes listed do not feature orange, but the blending of bergamot, vetiver, and patchouli achieves the instant image of orange trees to me.

Quote of the day: This is one of those views which are so absolutely absurd that only very learned men could possibly adopt them. -- Bertrand Russell

SOTD: Coco Madamoiselle pure parfum

Today I am going with the highly stylish, modern, and very tasteful scent of Coco Madamoiselle. It is one of those rare fragrances that was designed for the younger set, but was not dumbed down with sugary sweets and fruit salad, but rather its youthfulness is in the transparency of the the fragrance and the overall energy of the notes. It starts of with one of my favorite citrus openings, goes into a heart of creamy jasmine, and eventually settles with the uniquely airy combination of patchouli and vetiver.

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Eveline dans son atelier by Sophie Prive