Saturday, May 16, 2015

My New Favorite Diva Orange Blossom: Elie Saab Le Parfum Intense

Once you love a note, you start to see the holes in your collection for that note, and you start to search for the variation you want. You become obsessed with finding the perfect "fresh", "gourmand", "woody", etc., for a particular note. Of late as you know I have been in love with jammy/gourmand roses. Before that I was basically looking for a marshmallow/gourmand orange blossom which I found in Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger Neroli Blanc Intense Eau de Parfum. As for my everyday radiant orange blossom, it has been Elie Saab's Le Parfum. For an excellent take on a creamy incense orange blossom I pick up Lorenzo Villoresi's Dilmun. Anyways, my point is I like orange blossom and it has occurred to me that I don't have a big voluptuous orange blossom scent in my collection. Well, it actually didn't occur to me until I sampled Elie Saab's Le Parfum Intense* and boom there it was hole in my collection I was made aware of. I don't have a shoulder pad wearing diva orange blossom that is for the evening or being the center of the party.

We should back up a moment though and discuss Elie Saab's Le Parfum, which is a modern vibrant orange blossom that has Francis Kurkdjian's signature smooth musk and crystalline glow all around it. It is orange blossom on hyper-drive and is utterly modern, I love it, and always feel put together when I wear it. What I also love is the cedar basenote that Kurkdjian implements in its drydown it keeps the scent away from the ever overused modern patchouli drydown you can find everywhere these days. The cedar also makes the scent never go into the territory of over sweet. It is bright and modern but at the same time no slouch, on the other hand it is pretty ladylike.

Elie Saab Le Parfum Intense is the less ladylike variation, it is frankly the variation of Le Parfum on the prowl. Elie Saab Le Parfum Intense is about going into the sweet territory thankfully Kurkdjian recognizes is what he wants from the use of sweet, it is heady and drenched. This is a not a gourmand sweet but rather Kurkdjian has dunked his orange blossoms in honey and liquid amber and thrown a few chewy dried apricots in. What you get is a heady narcotic white blossom variation on the original Elie Saab Le Parfum, Intense is still radiant but the cedar has been toned down, and role of honey has been heightened and amber has warmed up the scent. The scent is no longer about silk but instead velvet and brocade.

Try Elie Saab Le Parfum Intense if you like Elie Saab Le Parfum, Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger Neroli Blanc Intense Eau de Parfum, or Serge Luten's Fleurs d'Oranger.

*Can we all be honest that Francis Kurkdjian is great perfume creator but good god, his creations no matter the designer or himself for that matter, have some of the most confusing names for their flankers.

first image from fragrantica.com
second image Guy Aroch

3 comments:

Marzipan said...

have you ever tried Sonoma Scent Studio's Jour Ensolielle? That is my favourite orange blossom. I like orange blossom as a note and orange blossom essential oil which I blend with a citrus essential oil such as wild orange or yuzu or bergamot and base (oppoponax, amber and vanilla essential oils). I will have to give Elie Saab a try but I don't remember seeing it at Sephora or dept stores (those are the most accessible perfume shops for me).

Jennifer Koth said...

Marzipan, I have tried Jour Ensolielle. The funny thing about it is that oakmoss in the scent takes over on me. I actually had the same thing happen to me with another SSS scent and have come to realize that whatever oak moss note Laurie uses in her SSS perfumes usually takes over on me. The truth is I have a bottle of Jour Ensolielle from a swap years ago that I don't use.

marzipan said...

That is too bad...it is on my all time favourite perfumes list....I do however, really love oakmoss and have some oakmoss absolute at home which I have been known to add to essential oils or pre-existing perfumes...I would wear it as a perfume unto itself but it is so thick and sticky and actually stains your skin.
And I thought of another lovely OB scent- Dame Perfumery's passion Fruit, Orange Blossom and Vetiver.